Fixed Gear Cyclists Challenge World's Toughest Weekend Bicycle Race

Furnace Creek 508, a non-stop 508 mile bicycle race from Santa Clarita to Twenty Nine Palms via California's Death Valley and Mojave Desert, is the world's premiere weekend ultramarathon bicycle race. Produced by AdventureCOPRS since 1990, but founded in 1983 by John Marino, the October 7-9, 2006 edition celebrates the 23rd anniversary, and 32nd edition, of this incredible race. Furnace Creek 508 is revered the world over for its epic mountain climbs totalling over 35,000 feet of cumulative elevation gain, stark desert scenery, desolate roads, and a reputation as one of the toughest but most gratifying endurance challenges available, bar none. Known as "The Toughest 48 Hours in Sport," Furnace Creek 508 is "Where the West is Won!"

In 2004, three hardy endurance cyclists challenged the brand new Fixed Gear Division at this world famous bicycle race. Tackling the entire event with just one gear and no coasting, as well as traditional steel frames, standard 32 spoke wheels, and no aero handlebars, all three finished. Click here to read about them and click here to view the 2004 webcast. In 2005, two more athletes contested this division, including the first female fixed gear entrant. Both finished. Click here to read about them and click here to view the 2005 webcast.

Here's a profile of the two fixed gear cyclists who will compete in 2006, both of them fixed gear 508 veterans, proving this division is more than just a fluke or statement, but an experience worth repeating!


Emily Archaeopteryx O'Brien, Somerville, MA, 23, Veteran: 44:24:27 solo fixed gear in 2005.

Fixed Gear Event Experience
I ride my fixed gear on most club rides and club centuries, and take my road bike only for road races and occasionally for rides. My longest rides have been by myself, as opposed to organized events, and they have all been on fixed gear. I've never ridden in an event before that specified the use of a fixed gear. Last year I completed the 508 on my fixed gear and now I'm back again.

Type of Bike
My bike is a 1974 Raleigh Professional frame, made in Nottingham in the Carlton factory, out of Reynolds 531 tubing. I got the frame and converted it to fixed gear initially to use as a commuter bike, but discovered I liked riding fixed so much that I started using it for actual bike rides as well. It isn't the lightest frame in existence, but it's far from the heaviest. It is ideal for use as a fixed gear because since it was originally intended for crit riding it has fairly aggressive geometry and a relatively high bottom bracket, which reduces the likelihood of pedal strikes. It is also very comfortable and fits me well.

Gear Inch: My gear is 42X16, which is about 70 inches.

Are two identical gears really the same? (A bigger ring and bigger cog can be identical to a smaller cog and smaller ring in gear inches, but do they "feel" the same?)
I haven't experimented with enough different combinations to know how equivalent combinations feel, but my guess is that if everything is clean and you're on flat ground, it probably won't matter that much. The reasons they are different that I can think of are: Weight, efficiency/friction, and wear life. A smaller ring and cog weighs less, but the difference is pretty minute unless you're really into counting grams. You might as well go looking for a lighter weight water bottle while you're at it. A larger ring and cog results in less friction in the drivetrain because the chain doesn't bend at as much of an angle when it curves around the gears. If you keep your drivetrain reasonably clean, this probably doesn't make that much of a difference; if your drivetrain looks like mine does in, say, February here in Boston, then it probably matters a little more! A larger cog and chainring will last longer as well, because the wear is distributed among more teeth in addition to the friction difference. Furthermore, since a smaller chainring gives you more leverage over whatever is connected to the other end of the chain (whether it's a cog, a brick wall, whatever) a smaller chaingring/cog combination results in more peak tension on the chain, increasing both friction and the probability that the chain will break.

Having a really honkin' huge chainring will also make you look tougher to all the messengers around town, since the size difference is more noticable up front than in back. So you can look macho by using a big chainring, regardless of your cog size. All that being said, I use my 42 because it's a convenient size to get ahold of, and I wear them out on a fairly regular basis  I don't think it makes enough difference to worry about... certainly not enough difference to justify the long explanation I just wrote! ;)

Types of rear dropouts used, as well as you how tension the chain
My dropouts are the original Campagnolo horizontal road dropouts. Yeah, I still have a derailleur tab on there. It's useful for hanging the chain on when I take out the wheel. I tension the chain by positioning the wheel where I want it, then tightning the bolts as much as I can by hand. Then I keep it from moving by wedging my hand in between the tire and the frame (I do this with the bike upside down usually) and then tightening the axle nuts one side at a time with a wrench. Sometimes if things are slipping around, I have to tighten the non-drive side first with the wheel a little off center towards the non-drive side, then push the rim over toward the other side and tighten the nut.

Brakes: how many, why, what kind?
I usually use one front brake, but I'm using a back brake as well for the 508 to distribute the load between both arms. I am squarely in the camp that riding a fixed gear on the road with no brakes, while better than riding a freewheeled bike with no brakes, is still a bad idea. First of all, in any vehicle, most of your stopping power is in the front. If you only have a rear wheel, your stopping power is limited to the traction in your rear wheel. For example, the street I live on is a steep enough hill that if it's wet and there's sand on it, I can go two pedal strokes out of my house, lock up the rear wheel with my feet, and skid all the way down the street. I don't know how far I'd keep sliding, because I use my front brake to actually stop before I go plowing out into the intersection at the bottom of the hill.

Furthermore, drivetrains aren't infallible. Chains can break, lockrings can strip, and cogs can spin off. If you break a chain or spin off a cog and you don't have any brakes, the best you can do is wedge your foot between your wheel and your seat tube. There are lots of arguments about braking with your legs being bad for your knees, or what fixed gear riding is really all about or about why brakes aren't allowed on velodromes, etc, but I don't want to tell anyone how they should enjoy their bicycle. Just because you have a brake installed doesn't mean you have to use it. It shouldn't spoil your skidding fun.

Physical ailments and issues?
None that I can think of... ask me again at the end! ;)

Why ride fixed, especially really far?
Mostly because I just like my fixed gear. I like the feel of control and connection with the bike, and all the other things people talk about when they try to explain why fixed gears are so great, but the real reason is that I just like riding fixed better. Also, when you're on your bike for a really really long time, there's something to be said for a bike whose momentum keeps the pedals going around by themselves!

What else do you find curious and enlightening about cycling, this event, or life in general?
I think that the wonderful thing about cycling is that it can serve so many purposes (transportation, fun, exercise, competition, an excuse to buy more tools, a social activity, something to tinker with....), and it's something that almost anyone can do. People don't realize that it isn't just for young people, fit people, kids, hippies, jocks, messengers with a death wish, people who got their drivers' licenses suspended, etc. It's unfortunate that so many kids forget about their bikes the minute they get their learners' permit, or that so many adults would never even think of taking their bike instead of their car to dash down the street to the convenience store.

A bicycle is the most efficient way we know of harnessing human power for transportation. It's inexpensive, mechanically simple, user servicable, and burns calories instead of gas, yet Americans who complain about getting fat, traffic congestion, and high gas prices don't think of the solution that's been under their noses since before cars were even invented.

So that's my bit about how bicycles can make the world a better place. I can go on about what my bikes do for my quality of life, but the root of it is that I just love bicycles.


Sam Seal Beal, 52, Mountain View, CA, 508 Veteran: 35:42:15 solo in 1999, 35:39:09 solo in 2000, and 35:14:40 solo in 2002; 39:10:38 solo fixed gear in 2004.

Fixed Gear Event Experience: Death Valley Double Century, Mar 6, 2004 (see photo above); Davis 24hr (252miles), April 11, 2004; Eastern Sierra Double Century, May 21 2004; The 508 in 2004.

Epic Fixed Gear Rides of 100+ Miles: Solo, unsupported one way ride from Mtn View to Paso Robles on a 100 degree day - Aug 27 2004 (I begged water from ranchers and detoured to Bradley, where I was "saved" by the ice machine at the CDF). Plus a couple of 100+ nite rides around "the loop" on the San Francisco Peninsula.

Type of Bike: Ciocc EOM 12.5 2003 (Dedaccia steel tubing with carbon forks). Rear wheel is White Industries Eccentric ENO hub on Velocity Fusion rim; Front wheel is Ultegra/Fusion. Pedals are DuraAce; Cinelli bars; Newton stem; Campy Record brake levers; Dura cranks & calipers.

Gear Inch: My gear inches for the 508 (and all the riding I've done leading up to it) is ~73", using 42/15 or 40/14.

Are two identical gears really the same? (A bigger ring and bigger cog can be identical to a smaller cog and smaller ring in gear inches, but do they "feel" the same?): For "normal" gear ratios, I don't think you can tell the difference.

Types of rear dropouts used, as well as you how tension the chain: I have a 20yr old Merckx with horizontal dropouts and a new steel Ciocc with vertical dropouts. I use a White Industries eccentric ENO for the latter.

Brakes: how many, why, what kind: I have standard road bike brakes - front and rear.

Physical ailments? I think fixed is a little harder on your rear-end.

Why ride fixed, especially really far? Once you get past an initial "break in" period, fixed-gear is easier than it looks. Part of the "break-in" is remembering you are on a fixed-gear and cannot "jump" over a pothole or RR track like you can with a freewheel. Getting vaulted over the handle bars will "fix" your memory on that one.

What else do you find curious and enlightening? Compared to 18-speed bikes, what you lose by not being in a big enough gear on flats/descents, you make up for by not being in too small a gear when a larger one is better. This happens at nite when you think you're going fast because you are spinning, but you're spinning too small a gear. At least with fixed all you have to think about is your spinning.